Petra Shepherd experiences the approach to Christmas in Cyprus, visiting markets in the Christmas Villages and hiking in the Troodos Mountains.
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Visiting one of the Christmas markets scattered around the world is a sure-fire way of getting into the Christmas spirit. Did you know that Christmas markets exist in Cyprus, an island known for legends, year-round sunshine and as the birthplace of Aphrodite, the Ancient Greek goddess of love, rather than Santa Claus?
Cyprus Christmas Villages
Launched in 2021, the Christmas Villages are an initiative to make Cyprus a year-round tourist destination. This year the Christmas Villages of Cyprus opened officially on 22 November.
The villages of Agros, Deryneia, Fikardou, Kalopanagiotis, Kiti, Kyperounta, Laiki Geitonia (Lefkosia) and Lefkara have all put on their finest festive attire to spread the Christmas spirit.
I’m standing in the village of Kyperounta, high up in the Troodos Mountains, and the voice of Georgios Kyriacos Panayiotou is blaring. He’s better known as George Michael and, appropriately, Last Christmas is playing.
Christmas in Cyprus
Temperatures in the Mediterranean now soar over the summer months. A winter stay, combining a city break in Nicosia, Larnaca or Limassol with a couple of days exploring the Troodos Mountains and experiencing a few of the Christmas Villages makes for a cooler alternative. A trip to Cyprus is ideal if you are looking for a winter mini-break.
It is 25 degrees Celcius (77 Fahrenheit) on the coast during my November visit. The Mediterranean Sea is 20 degrees Celcius (68 Fahrenheit): if, like me, you’re a passionate swimmer, you’ll know that feels positively balmy.
I’m a huge fan of Christmas markets. I’ve been to Christmas markets in Berlin, the Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen, Tampere in Finland and numerous across the UK.
Kyperounta Christmas market
The Christmas Village at Kyperounta stands out as being utterly charming and authentic. Admittedly, it’s small. Just a few wooden stalls stand in front of the village church dedicated to Agia Marina dating from the 18th century. But, seemingly, the whole village is entering into the festivities.
Giggling young girls dressed as elves hand out free lollipops attached to paper penguins to children. The now ‘essential’ spots for selfies and Instagram posts exist among the twinkling lights and festive decorations. There’s a free-to-visit mini-cinema for children showing Christmas movies.
What impresses me most is the free mulled wine. It’s hard to image to imagine that anywhere else in the world. In this wine-producing area of Cyprus, they have a lot of wine on tap, so to speak.
Troodos Mountain Range
Located in the Troodos Mountain Range, in the Pitsilia region of Lemesos (Limassol) district, the village of Kyperounta sits at an altitude of approximately 1,300 metres (4,265 feet) above sea level. Though it’s warm on the coast, the higher altitude makes wearing a coat necessary. But the colder temperature helps make it feel festive and, I tell myself, justifies the mulled wine.
This leafy village is the third highest on the island and maintains its traditional character. Kyperounta’s distinctive features of steep lanes, grapevines, small yards and houses with tiled roofs and picturesque lofts are elements of its natural charm.
Kyperounta is renowned for its apples, wine and traditional cold meats. Along with its handicrafts, all are available at the stalls of the Christmas Village. The Christmas Village also features a range of activities, including live music performances, festive workshops and visits from Santa Claus.
Kalopanagiotis Christmas market
The village of Kalopanagiotis is in the Marathasa Valley. Also in the Troodos Mountain Range, it is the second of the Cyprus Christmas Villages I visit.
As locations go, Kalopanagiotis’s Christmas market is hard to beat. It is in a valley next to the Monastery of Agios Ioannis Lampadistis (alternatively known as the Monastery of St John Lampadistis), which is included in the Painted Churches in the Troodos Region UNESCO World Heritage Site. Surrounded by pine trees draped with lights the Christmas market in Kalopanagiotis is accessed via an illuminated bridge.
I get to the village early to marvel at the monastery’s well-preserved frescoes. They date from the ninth to the 15th century.
I stay at Casa Panayiotis, a resort hotel distributed throughout the village. It is comprised of beautifully restored local stone cottages and a luxurious spa.
Drumming Santas
As I approach, drumming Santas entertain the crowd at Kalopanagiotis Christmas market with Maria Carey’s All I Want for Christmas is You. Beginning to wonder if there might be something a little more traditional, I’m not disappointed as a choir from Nicosia harmonises while singing Cypriot folk songs.
Stalls at the market sell souvlakia, sausages, burgers as well as locally crafted Christmas products. Other delicacies include loukoumades, a type of fluffy doughnut doused with honey, and soutzoukos, chewy Cypriot sweet made by dipping nuts in boiled grape juice. In keeping with the festive theme soutzoukos looks similar to an Advent candle.
The Christmas market in Kalopanayiotis continues until 6 January. Experiential workshops are held, including a soutzoukos-making workshop, a honey-processing workshop plus sessions focused on making Christmas wreaths and sticks scented with herbs. There’s also a chess workshop.
If crafting doesn’t appeal, there’s all manner of other entertainment from dance performances by local folklore groups and choir and musical theatre performances. Games and activities for children are held. There’s even a Happy Grinchmas puppet show.
Kalopanayiotis’s Christmas market concludes on 6 January with a traditional feast. Gloriously, it’s titled Titzi Titzi Sausage and Cheese Bites.
Hiking in the Troodos Mountains
Kalopanayiotis is a good base to explore well-maintained hiking trails of the Troodos Mountains. After experiencing Cypriot hospitality you may appreciate stretching your legs and burning calories.
The trails range in difficulty and length, from three kilometres (almost two miles) to 176 km (109 miles). Home to Mount Olympus, the island’s highest peak at 1,952 metres (6,404 feet) above sea level, this gorgeous mountain range overlooks the valleys of Limassol, Larnaka and the greater Mesaoria plain.
Vastly different to the Mediterranean coast less than an hour away, the mountain range has 65 designated hiking routes.
I stroll along two of the easier ones. The Tisia tis Madaris Geo-Trail is a 3.5-km (2.17-mile) circular trail that typically takes about 70 minutes to complete. Near vertical rocks, known as Tisia, exist in the area, forming what seems to be imposingly high walls. The path is rich with flora and geology unique to Cyprus and signs tell their stories. Expect to catch glimpses of the blue sea beyond the lace-like canopy of cedar trees.
Vateris Nature Trail
The Vateris Nature Trail in Kakopetria is a short, easy route on the west bank of the River Clarios. It follows the river bed, among plane trees and dense vegetation.
A compound of the words kako and petra, meaning ‘bad’ and ‘rock’, it’s said that Kakopetria was named because in older times the area was not only rocky but also difficult to climb.
Throughout my visit to Cyprus, friendly locals commented on my name. They asked: “Why are you called Rock”?
Close to the large bridge at the village’s entrance, there is a huge rock known as Petra tou Androgynou. Its name translates into English as “Couples’ Rock” because, according to tradition, newly-wed couples would sit on the rock. One day the rock rolled over and crushed a newly-wed couple under it. After that unfortunate event, it was renamed Kakopetra, meaning “Bad Rock” and the village was named Kakopetria.
If you’re looking for an otherwise heartwarming experience that brings together the warmth of the Mediterranean with some Yuletide magic, then Cyprus’s Christmas Villages are a festive treat. Perhaps you’ll return home with unique, locally made Christmas presents and an urge to return in the summer months to breathe in more of the Troodos Mountains’ pine-scented air.
Map of the Troodos Mountains
Zoom into or out of the map of the Troodos Mountain Range below to find the villages mentioned:
Books about Cyprus
Planning a trip to Cyprus? You can purchase the following books from Amazon:
Walking in Cyprus: 44 Walks in the South and North by Nike Werstroh and Jacint Mig.
The Olive Tree by Lucinda Riley.
Bitter Lemons of Cyprus by Lawrence Durrell.
Cypriana: Vibrant Recipes Inspired by the Food of Greece and Cyprus by Theo A. Michaels.
Enjoy Christmas in Cyprus if you plan on heading there over the festive period!
Further information
Find out more about things to do in Cyprus via the visitcyprus.com website.
The Petit Palais hotel in Pano Platres places you nine kilometres (5.6 miles) from Mount Olympus.
Petra Shepherd is a freelance travel writer with over 30 years’ experience in television, 19 of which were with Travel Channel International, the leading global travel broadcaster. She was responsible for award-winning documentary-style travel programmes. Petra was a celebrity booker and has met the likes of Dame Edna Everage and Donald Trump. She has visited more than 120 countries, has lived in Hong Kong and Italy and loves swimming, skiing and hiking as well as visiting markets and local festivals.
Thanks for visiting Go Eat Do and reading this post about the Cyprus Christmas Villages. You may also enjoy a Buggy Safari on the Akamas Peninsula of Cyprus:
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