Stuart Forster speaks with a resident of New Brunswick and outlines key attractions in this roundup of Saint John things to do and see.
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The city of Saint John, in New Brunswick, offers a cracking night out. After an unexpectedly late finish to the previous day, I pulled back the curtains in my waterfront hotel room for a view of the mouth of the Saint John River. Opening into the Bay of Fundy, the scene was even foggier than my head after an incredible Saturday night out.
What had I done the previous evening? After eating dinner in the Saint John Ale House (1 Market Square; tel. +1 506 657 2337) I moved on to the Happinez Wine Bar (42 Princess Street; tel. +1 506 634 7340). That was followed by a couple of locally brewed beers in Five & Dime (34 Grannan Street; tel. +1 506 898 0020) while shuffling my feet and swaying to the Stone Roses and other retro tunes. Hours later, it felt like the beat of the Stone Roses was still thumping in my head.
Saint John attractions
To recover, I stepped outside for a breath of fresh air on the wharf. After turning along Market Street I meandered uphill to the leafy park at King’s Square. From there I crossed Charlotte Street and entered Saint John’s Old City Market, which opened in 1876. Its origins can be traced to a charter of 1785, making it the oldest continually operating farmers’ market in North America.
A sign next to a depiction of a man wearing a tricorn hat and breeches informed me that I was in “Canada’s first incorporated city established by royal charter.”
I headed to the Slocum and Ferris (47 Charlotte Street; tel. +1 506 652 2260) store for a breakfast bagel featuring egg and dulse, a type of seaweed that some of New Brunswick’s residents use as an alternative to bacon. While there I met with Dave Forestell, who agreed to provide local insights into Saint John.
Saint John City Market
“My store has been in the same location since 1895,” he explained before we started the interview, and proudly showed me one of Slocum and Ferris’s old hand-written ledgers. “It’s done business in three different centuries, so for Saint John it’s a little bit of an older spot.”
Dave is a local. Eight years in Calgary, Alberta, helped heighten his appreciation of Saint John’s heritage, which includes a number of Victorian buildings.
The text below represents Dave’s answers to my questions:
Reasons to visit Saint John
Saint John had a massive fire in 1877 so, basically, they decided to build an incredible amount of brick homes of various styles. A lot of sea captains built grander ones.
Probably due to a relative lack of prosperity compared to other urban centres those buildings never got torn down for urban renewal. An incredible number of heritage housing is right here in Saint John, clustered in a brick forest…it’s great to walk around here. You really capture the atmosphere and the history.
Best places to visit in Saint John
My favourite place is the Old City Market, of course. It’s cool. It has so much character. People sometimes walk through quickly but if you hang around it becomes like our own Coronation Street: Lots of characters and not everyone gets along! Lots going on. Lots of intrigue and competition but, for the most part, it’s a very friendly and homogenous group.
It’s a nice opposite to a mall. We get to hang out with our customers. You’re really talking owner-operator when you buy at the City Market.
Restaurants in Saint John
One of my customers, John Thompson, is a waiter at Britt’s (42 Princess Street; tel. +1 506 214 5335). He seems to know what’s going on, so you always have to check in there. It’s a lovely place and has some good beers too.
Bars in Saint John
Picaroons (32 Canterbury Street; +1 506 648 9834) is a great spot. It’s a microbrewery with a lot of character. You can bring the family dog, you can bring food; it’s very relaxed. It has the coolest curved table, which is made to seat tons of people. People get talking to each other very quickly there.
The Benedict Arnold connection
Americans come to visit Saint John and are surprised to learn that Benedict Arnold lived here for a few years. The funny thing is that he’s famous as a traitor in the States. He was a bit of a butthead when he lived here.
He wasn’t a popular guy. Arnold was not liked at all and had a few business dealings that went sour. He was not well-liked on either side of the border, so that’s a cool little story for Americans.
Things to do near Saint John
Saint John is the only city on the Bay of Fundy. It’s such a magical coast. There’s so much to do.
Right outside the city, at St Martin’s, there are some fantastic caves that you can kayak in at high tide and walk in at low tide.
Just beyond that is the Fundy Trail, which is a beautiful seacoast that’s been opening up. You can go all the way to Hopewell Rocks. In the other direction, St Andrews is a favourite for me.
Travel to New Brunswick
Flying to Halifax Stanfield International Airport in neighbouring Nova Scotia puts you a little over three and a half hours drive from Saint John. Approximately 382 kilometres of road lie between the airport and Saint John.
Air Canada operates flights from Montreal and Toronto to Saint John Airport (airport code YSL). The airport lies about 25 minutes’ drive north-east of the city centre.
Map of Saint John
The Google Map below shows the location of the city of Saint John in New Brunswick, Canada:
Hotels in Saint John, New Brunswick
Looking for accommodation in Saint John? Search for rooms on Booking.com:
Books about New Brunswick
Planning a trip to Saint John and New Brunswick? The following books are available from Amazon:
Lonely Planet’s guidebook to Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island.
The Moon guidebook to Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island.
History of Canada: A Captivating Guide to Canadian History.
A Concise History of Canada by Margaret Conrad.
Further information
Find out more via the Discover Saint John website and by checking out the city’s #SaintAwesome hashtag on social media.
The New Brunswick and Destination Canada websites are also useful sources of information.
Thank you for visiting Go Eat Do and reading this post about Saint John things to do and see. Planning a trip to New Brunswick? You may also enjoy posts about the Fundy coastal drive and an interview with Saint John brewmaster, Wendy Papadopoulos.
Stuart Forster, the author of this post, was the recipient of the 2017 British Annual Canada Travel Award (BACTA) for Best Online Content. He writes frequently about destinations in Canada.
Photos illustrating this post are by Why Eye Photography.
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A version of this blog post was first published on Go Eat Do on 1 August 2017.
Brooke Herron
October 13, 2017 at 08:38Love the street art… and the brick buildings.
Have been hearing great things about St John via travel blogger/writer friends so must get there at some point to experience myself!
Stuart Forster
October 13, 2017 at 08:45I really did enjoy spending time in Saint John. For a sizeable city it has a laid-back vibe.
Georgette
October 14, 2017 at 12:10This is a really great write-up and I concur with Brooke about the interesting street art. I haven’t yet been to Canada (hands in head in shame) but hoping my husband and I can do a road-trip in this area sometime next year!
Stuart Forster
October 15, 2017 at 12:19Hello Georgette, I’m sure you’ll enjoy it if you do get to New Brunswick. Driving there is relatively stressless, I found, and the natural scenery is impressive. I’ll be posting more about the province soon, so please pop back for further information.
Emma @ Adventures of a London Kiwi
October 14, 2017 at 16:02“It’s a little bit of an older spot” is an intriguing ‘humblebrag’ isn’t it?
Stuart Forster
October 15, 2017 at 12:23I suppose it is. I met a handful of people in Saint John who went out of their way to show me what they regard as the highlights of their city. Dave was certainly not alone in being proud of his city. It’s lovely to experience that.
Daniel Welsch
October 15, 2017 at 14:10Looks like a great place to visit! I haven’t been to Canada forever.
Stuart Forster
October 16, 2017 at 07:41There are some good deals on transatlantic flights at present. Now is the time.
Nikki @ Notes of Life
October 15, 2017 at 17:58I love Canada and Saint John looks like a wonderful place to visit 🙂
Stuart Forster
October 16, 2017 at 07:40It’s one of many destinations across Canada that I’d have no hesitation in returning to!
Nell Heshram
October 15, 2017 at 19:15I’ll look forward to reading more about New Brunswick. Perhaps someone should commission a soap around Old City Market….
Stuart Forster
October 16, 2017 at 07:42Now that could be fun. Know any script writers?
Kathryn Burrington
October 18, 2017 at 13:38Did you get to the Fundy Trail? I only caught a glimpse of it but would love to go back one day. And what about the zip line? Did you try it? It’s certainly one of the scariest I’ve ever been on. Love Saint John – the people, the buildings, the parks not to mention the food and beer! Fabulous city.
Stuart Forster
October 22, 2017 at 10:45I would have loved more time for the Fundy Trail. Saint John’s vibe made it a lovely city to spend time. I’m not a fan of heights and the zip-line proved too much for me, unfortunately. I’d have loved to have been able to follow the course because the views over the Reversing Rapids must have been spectacular.
Shobha George
November 4, 2017 at 13:30I really don’t know much about Canada! Saint John’s sounds really cool. Great story about Benedict Arnold. I saw his memorial plaque at West Point which is half-hidden in the eaves because he was both a graduate as well as a traitor. He’s definitely made his name in history but not in a good way.
Stuart Forster
November 6, 2017 at 18:24I think Canada is a wonderful destination. I bet West Point is a fascinating place for anyone interested in history and traditions.
Ferne Arfin
November 10, 2017 at 15:35Interesting piece but not sure about that egg and dulse bagel. And as an ex New Yorker, not even sure I’d call that a bagel. But it looks like an interesting town if you are doing an east coast Canada trip.
Stuart Forster
November 14, 2017 at 17:46Saint John proved a fun place to pause during my tour of New Brunswick. The bagel was a tasty way to start the day.