Travelling in England by rail, Stuart Forster heads to Nottinghamshire and explores things to do in Newark-on-Trent.
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Newark-on-Trent lies on the United Kingdom’s East Coast Main Line, meaning well connected for visits by rail.
A discounted rail fare offer was my reason to plan a day trip to Newark. It is a history-rich town with a vast, cobbled market square at its heart.
The medieval spire of the Church of St Mary Magdalene peeks above the pastel-fronted buildings abutting the square. The church’s interiors were restored during Victorian times by Sir George Gilbert Scott. He was the architect who designed the Midland Grand Hotel (today known as the chic St Pancras Renaissance London Hotel), the Albert Memorial in London and
A photogenic town centre
The most striking facade of the photogenic square is Newark Town Hall, an elegant, honey-coloured Georgian building. I entered to view the Assembly Rooms and to take a look at the Town Hall Museum and Art Gallery. Exhibits include town charters, mayoral robes and roughly pressed, diamond-shaped coins known as siege pieces, dating from the Civil War in the 1640s.
Newark was a Royalist stronghold during the Civil War and was besieged three times between 1642 and 1646. Newark Castle, whose shell overlooks the River Trent, was torn apart by Parliamentarian troops in 1646.
I wandered past several timber-framed buildings, including the Governor’s House, which may well be the most eye-catching of all the many Greggs cafés and snack shops in the country. I also spot a handful of antique shops as I mooch around the compact town centre.
National Civil War Centre
All told, Newark makes a positive impression. I mentioned that to Michael Constantine, Manager of the National Civil War Centre, when we met at the attraction, which opened in 2015.
He’d heard numerous similar comments and nodded. “People here often say ‘Newark’s the best town you’ve never visited’,” joked Michael.
The National Civil War Centre is a family-friendly tourist attraction. It hosts artefacts and exhibits relating to the build-up to the Civil War. The centre also explores how the war affected Newark and the country as a whole. It also examines the legacy of the conflict. That’s done through interactive exhibitions and films that bring to life the stories of individuals involved in the siege of Newark.
Michael explains how an augmented reality Civil War walking trail was developed. Visitors to Newark can use smartphones and tablets to trigger film clips and games at various points around the town.
Queen’s Sconce earthworks
On the edge of Newark, in the Sconce and Devon Park, I visited earthworks constructed by Royalist defenders nearly 400 years ago.
The Queen’s Sconce is one of the best-preserved examples of 17th-century earthworks in Europe. Defenders stayed ‘ensconced’ as part of efforts to stay safe from cannon and musket fire.
Sitting on a park bench overlooking the sconce, I enjoyed the warmth of spring sunshine nd wondered why it had taken me so long to visit Newark.
Lunch in Newark
I paused for a pint and a pot-roasted partridge in The Prince Rupert (46 Stodman Street; tel. +44 (0)1636 918121). The pub’s history dates to ‘c.1452’ according to the sign outside. It has Olde Worlde-style rooms with oak beams plus a bright conservatory area.
The food served went way beyond simple pub grub, though dishes such as fish and chips and burgers are available. My partridge was slow-cooked in red wine with smoked bacon and redcurrants and served with savoy cabbage, mashed potato and parsnip crisps.
The availability of free bottled tap water on tables was very welcome after a morning of sightseeing in Newark.
If you enjoy pizza, there’s a broad choice of toppings available.
Shops in Newark
Wandering through Newark, I browsed the windows of numerous independent shops.
I picked up a couple of craft beers from Europe at The Real Ale Store (12–14 Kirk Gate). Beers from international and British breweries are stocked.
Newark Buttermarket is an events and training centre.
Coffee shops in Newark
Newark has a choice of independent cafés and a Starbucks on the marketplace.
Visiting Newark Castle
Newark Castle and Gardens overlook the River Trent. Alexander, the Bishop of Lincoln, ordered the construction of the fortification in the mid-12th century. A project to redevelop the gatehouse and castle site will be completed in the winter of 2026-27.
The castle has its fair share of history. King John died at Newark Castle on 19 October 1216. That was a little more than a year after he put his seal to the Magna Carta.
At the time, John was in a conflict with feudal lords, fighting what became known as the First Barons’ War. It was to be John’s last.
Rumours persist that he was poisoned by a monk at Swineshead Abbey. He stayed at the abbey after losing his baggage train. However, it’s now thought John contracted dysentery and that his condition deteriorated over the following days.
He was too ill to travel on from Newark and passed away in the castle overlooking the River Trent. His body was moved and buried in Worcester Cathedral.
Just Beer Micropub
If you enjoy real ale, head to the Just Beer Micropub (32A Castlegate). It’s tucked away off the main road in the Swan and Salmon Yard. Narrow and atmospheric, the pub has tapped more than 6,600 cdifferent beers from over 1,500 breweries since opening in August 2010.
You’ll find a dartboard and a beer engine with moving parts. Beers are served from behind a tiny brick-built bar just wide enough for three people to stand abreast.
When to Visit Newark
Reasons to visit Newark include the Newark Duck Race (June), Newark Book Festival (July) and the Truckfest Newark (October).
Travel to Newark-on-Trent
Newark Northgate station is less than a mile from the town centre.
Newark Northgate is a one-hour and 13-minute train ride north of London King’s Cross railway station. For me, it was a one-hour 47-minute train journey south of Newcastle upon Tyne. Anyone heading south from Edinburgh will find that it’s about a 3.5-hour rail journey.
East Midlands Airport is approximately 27 miles southwest of Newark upon Trent
Map of Newark-on-Trent
Find attractions and places of interest in Newark using the map below:
Hotels in Newark
Kelham House (Main Street, Kelham; tel. +44 (0)1636 705266) is a country manor located a couple of miles from Newark. This Edwardian house dates from 1903 and offers luxury accommodation in 12 guestrooms. It has been developed into a conference and wedding venue.
Search for accommodation in Newark-on-Trent using the map below:
Further information
See the Visit Newark and Visit Nottinghamshire websites to learn more about the city and surrounding region.
Thank you for visiting Go Eat Do and reading this post on things to do in Newark-upon-Trent. If you are looking for days out by train from London, you may also enjoy a day trip to Peterborough.
Stuart Forster, the author of this post, is an award-winning travel writer.
Photos illustrating this post are by travel and food specialist Why Eye Photography.
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A version of this post about visiting Newark-on-Trent was initially published on Go Eat Do on 30 March 2015.
