Stuart Forster reviews a stay at Lumley Castle Hotel in Chester-le-Street, County Durham.
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Like the idea of a stay in an English castle? It’s possible at the Lumley Castle Hotel, a four-star property with a state-of-the-art escape room and a restaurant serving modern British cuisine.
England’s northeast is dotted with castles. They stand as a legacy of turbulent times centuries ago when English and Scottish forces clashed frequently. Lumley Castle was constructed from 1389 for Sir Ralph Lumley, who just a year earlier had been taken prisoner by Scots while fighting at the Battle of Otterburn.
Three centuries ago, the castle underwent renovations by one of England’s most celebrated architects, Sir John Vanbrugh. It later became a residence of the Bishop of Durham and has been utilised as a place of learning by Durham University. In 1976 the Grade I listed building opened as a hotel, presenting guests with opportunities to stay overnight in a castle.
Rooms at Lumley Castle Hotel
Lumley Castle Hotel has a total of 73 guestrooms in seven categories. They range from Courtyard Classic rooms, in the converted stable block adjacent to the castle, to the King James Suite. The suite is named after King James I of England who stayed in the castle in 1603, the first year of his reign.
Accompanied by my partner, I spent a night in one of the Courtyard State rooms. Comfortable and spacious, the classically furnished room featured a four-poster bed and Nespresso coffee-making machine. Framed prints of woodcuts depicting characters from British history, including Mary Queen of Scots and Oliver Cromwell, hung in the bedroom and bathroom.
The bathroom featured a bathtub and shower. It was stocked with Bulgari toiletries and bathrobes hung in the wardrobe.
Food at Lumley Castle hotel
We ate at Lumley Castle’s Knights Restaurant. Prior to dinner, we were shown to seats in the bar to peruse the menu over drinks. I opted for a classic gin-based Bramble rather than one of the seasonal cocktails. Impressed by the mixologist’s work, I ordered a second.
Dinner in a castle
The dining concept is based on a comfortable interpretation of a cathedral-style refectory with handcrafted pottery. The vaulted arching of the restaurant’s ceiling is a natural fit.
Executive Head Chef Craig Sherrington has developed a modern menu incorporating locally sourced ingredients and regional dishes such as Northumberland vegetable broth and roast Lakeland lamb.
Dinner at Lumley Castle
The cured and torched mackerel proved a beautifully presented starter. Following our server’s recommendation, we also ordered a spring onion bhaji. Served with a smoked cheese sauce, the lightly spiced bhaji was impressively flavoursome and succulent.
The choice of mains included blackened salmon and braised pork belly but neither of us looked beyond the temptation of a rib-eye steak. The 28-day-aged steaks were served with roast tomato and a flavour-packed field mushroom, plus a choice of two side dishes.
To accompany the steaks we selected two glasses of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Argentiers from the hotel’s Priority Wine List. Its options are served in sizes from 125-millilitre glasses upwards.
Service in the Knights Restaurant was attentive and the food was enjoyable.
A walk through the hotel
The first photograph that I ever developed (on film, in a darkroom) was of one of the Roman-style busts in one of the corridors of the Lumley Castle Hotel. Many years on, I was pleased to see that the heads are still present. This time, my photos were digital.
According to legend, the woman who had a relationship with Sir Ralph Lumley before his marriage was bundled down a well by priests. The ghost of Lily of Lumley is reputed to haunt the castle. She features as a character in the escape room, which lays claims to being the first in any English castle.
I’m grateful to General Manager Gordon Cartwright for taking the time to walk us through the grand function rooms usually used during wedding receptions and corporate events at Lumley Castle Hotel.
The castle proved a pleasant base for a romantic night away with dinner.
Things to do in Chester-le-Street
Lumley Castle is ideally placed if you’re looking for a base to attend a cricket match at the Durham Riverside ground. The ground, where England won the Ashes in 2013, is less than a mile from the hotel.
The footpaths of Chester-le-Street’s Riverside Park are well-suited for a relaxing stroll or run. A five-kilometre Parkrun takes place each Saturday at 9.00 am. The park is across the other side of the River Wear to the hotel.
Play golf? Chester-le-Street Golf Club is next to Lumley Castle Hotel. The two collaborate to offer morning tee times to guests staying at the hotel. The 18-hole course was laid out in the early part of the last century to a design by two Open Championship winners.
A market is held in Chester-le-Street on Fridays and Saturdays.
From Chester-le-Street, it’s a 15-minute drive to Chester-le-Street Golf Club, less than eight miles to the south. It takes five minutes on a train to get to Durham, whose UNESCO World Heritage Site castle and cathedral count as the headline attractions.
Another option is to park at the foot of Penshaw Hill, six miles away, and visit Penshaw Monument. Reminiscent of a Greek temple, the National Trust-operated memorial to the Earl of Durham counts among the best things to do in Sunderland, England.
Newcastle upon Tyne, 11 miles from Chester-le-Street, is an eight-minute journey by train. Known for its nightlife, Newcastle has several museums and art galleries that warrant visiting.
Map of Lumley Castle
The map below shows Lumley Castle in County Durham. Zoom out of the map to find the location of nearby towns, cities and attractions:
Lumley Castle Hotel
See the Lumley Castle Hotel (Ropery Lane, Chester-le-Street, DH3 4NX; tel. 0191 389 1111) website for more information about the hotel, the castle’s history and rooms. The website also has information about the Lumley Castle afternoon tea, weddings at the castle, special offers and events such as whisky tastings.
The escape room at Lumley Castle Hotel can be booked for between two and six players.
Lumley Castle Hotel has free on-site parking and free access to Wi-Fi.
Hotels in Chester-le-Street
Search for accommodation in Chester-le-Street and the surrounding area using the website below:
Books about County Durham
Looking for reading material with local relevance ahead of visiting Lumley Castle? The following books are available from Amazon:
County Durham Folk Tales by Adam Bushnell.
Further information
Take a look at the This is Durham website for more information about things to do in County Durham.
Thanks for visiting Go Eat Do and reading this post about Lumley Castle Hotel in County Durham. Like the idea of staying in a UK castle hotel? Check out this post about a night at Langley Castle in Northumberland.
Stuart Forster, the author of this post, is a history graduate and award-winning travel writer. His hotel reviews have been published by The Hotelegraph and Our Man On The Ground.
Photos illustrating this post are by Why Eye Photography, which is available for travel and food photography shoots across northeast England and beyond.
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A version of this post was initially published on Go Eat Do on 19 September 2020.
